Many people ask me what setup I am using with the arcol.hu v4 hotend,
or what setup I recommend for it.
I bit the bullet, and I wrote this detailed article.
I am always trying to push the envelop of 3D printing, therefore my machine
is evolving all the time, so you can expect more articles in the future:)
The extruder shown here will also be available as a kit through the website.
This recommendation is for 2012 december, although it could have been built since around 2012 march.
Partlist (with pictures)
- 1x Arcol.hu hotend v4.1.1.
- 1x Arcol.hu hyena v1.1
- 1x m8 nut with m3 grubscrew
- 1x Arcol.hu spring kit
- 2x 40mm fan
- 1x Wade's accessible extruder body
- 1x Carriage with 2 fan holders
- 1x Satchet of nuts and bolts
- 3x Linear bearings
Are you wondering why is a cap there?: Maglev carriage fan
Downloading the .stl file of the RP parts
All of the RP parts, are from thingiverse.
However I have modified almost all of them. I will publish one .stl file per
week on thingiverse, referring back to the original thing and its author.
It has an integrated guide, so you dont need the grooved 608 bearing,
to guide the filament, its mere cost saving.
You can still have the grooved 608 bearing, it does not make things worse, this idler just duplicates the grooved 608 bearing feature.
You may be wondering why I am not using herringbone gears.
Herringbone gears run a little quiter, and have a tiny bit less backlash.
Also they can handle higher torque.
However it does not affect print quality.
The filament has a backlash due to its inertia, and we compensate
for backlash anyway. It has the same number of teeth, so no additional
resolution either (not that we need it).
But the main reason is that it is more troublesome to print out, for no real
advantage, so I kept the traditional spur gears. You can print a
herringbone if you wish as an upgrade.
Wade pusher (extruder upper body)
It is a modified Accessible Wade extruder, mainly the holes were adjusted.
It is more accurate and compatible with
You can see the setup is standing on two M8 nuts, so the
hotend is lower by just enough distance then the two fans.
It is optimised for the minimum height, so you have the
maximum printing height possible*.
You could have build this extruder setup from about february of this year (2012).
If someone would have published this extruder setup back in time, it
would have saved me some unnecessary circles.
So I hope you (dear Reader) find this article equally useful,
what I would have found it, if it was existed back then.
Im fairly happy with the overall printing quality, you can see it as
our current state of the art at 0.3mm layer height.
No worries, even finer layer height is possible, so it is not the
limit of what v4 is capable of.
I think Im able to print one full set per week, and for start I have
3 full sets. I know it is limited, but it is not intended for general
public, just for the quality enthusiastic and those who want
a working printer first and a DIY machine second.
I change slightly the commenting policy. I will close the commenting after a week of the date of publishing to prevent spams leaking through.
But in all occasion, please prefer the mailing list.
After the above deadline, any further discussion can only happen on the mailing list, in this thread.
The brass one is the new version:)
You mount it with a M8 nylock nut, so the width of your extruder does not matter.
Key advantage over the old version
- It's machined from straight, round brass stock. Regular bolts often have large tolerances and are not entirely straight. The hyena is guaranteed to be straight.
- Each tooth is individually machines, so there is no "orphan tooth". An orphan tooth is an incompletely cut tooth that occurs during hobbed bolt production with a tap, because the teeth of the tap do not match the diameter of the bolt while cutting. This is a problems because it's the spot where filament begins to slip. It tends to bite a small piece of plastic off the filament as it does not reach deep enough to grip. The next (normal) tooth continues eating into the filament, resulting a complete filament strip, and no printing. The hyena prevents this by making sure every tooth grips by the same amount.
Installing on a Wade style extruder
(Also take note the really useful and special M8 nut. It will be the subject of an another announcement:)
Im a technical guy, any drawings?
This is a dummy model of Arcol.hu Hot-end v3.0 to get a feeling of the actual size. A real hot-end cant be printed using plastic:)
As almost all my previous buyer built a heated bed controller, and at least Bogdan have built one, nophead is using his brain controller to handle the heated bed temperature. So there left no choice, but build my own;-)